Scopello has my heart. No seriously, I shall be returning here as soon as I can. It is truly wonderful in every possible way. Perhaps my ebullience is in part due to the lack of jellyfish after the infested waters of Marettimo - hurrah! - but whether that's the case or not, I cannot recommend it enough. Situated in the Trapani Provence of north-western Sicily, this coastal village is not a lot more than a tiny centre and a spattering of holiday houses on the winding roads up from the most marvellous beaches I have seen in my life. Persuaded yet?
The house we were staying in was the stuff of dreams. Modest but comfortable and situated as it was on the edge of the cliff, the expansive views felt like ours and ours alone. What made it quite so incredible however was the tall, rusting, rickety spiral staircase that wound down to to the rocks below - our very own natural private jetty.
If anything has the power to induce acrophobia, this rusting structure certainly did but once down and through the gate, the sea below was a paradise to explore. We spent all day, every day swimming round rocks further and further out and jumping of said rocks from higher and higher heights, traipsing back up to stairs to refuel with slabs of focaccia dripping with oil and rosemary crumbs before scampering back down to do it all over again in the afternoon.
On the final evening, we decided to don clothes instead of swimsuits for the first time in a week and drive along the coast to Castellammare del Golfo for a final Mediterranean meal (gelato included, obviously). I think I now love Italy by night even more than by day - the dark depths beneath the shimmering surface water, Italian buskers filling the streets with their tunes and the wonderful search for a restaurant, knowing full well that whichever you choose will be sure to delight!
