My first week in Vienna was truly a dream - so much so that the ensuing stress (see next week's post) was entirely inevitable. But we'll leave that for now and start with the good stuff!
Mum and I flew out early on Wednesday 9th September for a week in an airbnb before she returned home and into quarantine and I officially began my year abroad. This first week was one of lots of walking, even more eating and a bit of nostalgia on the side (Mum au paired out here in her gap year and I first visited with school just after my interviews in Oxford)!
Arriving to blue skies and sunbathing locals, the countless jumpers I'd rammed into my hold bag for an 'icy Viennese winter' have yet to be unpacked. September sun bathed the already stunning buildings and cafés spilled out onto the streets due to heat, not social distancing - a refreshing change!
We headed straight to the Naschmarkt for a late lunch - not so traditional, but incredibly delicious and fortifying falafel salads followed by a range of local delicacies thrust upon us as taste-testers while we meandered out past the stalls.
Sauerkraut and Gürken - I need nothing more!
What followed was a walking tour at golden hour, through the Innere Stadt, round past the Hofburg and a loop back round past Karlskirche to our apartment on Wiedner Hauptstraße. After a very early start and wonderful but long day, we hit the hay!
Day two began with the successful opening of an Austrian bank account - the meeting conducted entirely in 'Denglish.' What's surprised me most about Vienna is how little English is spoken. I know it's early days but unlike other European cities I've visited, in which I've tried to converse in the language and been disappointingly replied to in English, that hasn't once happened here. It's refreshing to have to ask to clarify in English - something I'm trying to avoid but is probably wise in the context of all things banking..!
Lunch followed at Café Sperl - a Kaffehaus renowned for being a former spy haunt. Under the cold watch of the waiter (something I'm still trying to accept as normal rather than personal), we tried to control our excitement about the food - Geröstete Knödel mit Ei und Salat followed by Kaffee of course!
This is becoming rather a long post so I'll sum up the week with a few highlights:
Up first, a trip to the Alte Donau for a swim (!) This was the last thing I expected to be doing in Vienna but as it turns out, a dip in the Donau is a hit with the locals. So-called 'Donau Bäder' (paid or public lidos) line the shore and are accompanied with volleyball pitches and little docks. It really was quite the utopian sight and going from there, past the sky-scraping UN building on the way home was a pretty surreal contrast.
Next up, another Kaffeehaus! This time, Café Hawelka. Greeted by another frosty waiter - it's part of the charm really - we asked for the menu, of which they have none. Of course not, silly us. Just about grasping from the list he reeled off, something about "Gemüse", I was the served a truly delish vegetable Strudel while Mum went for the much more 'classic' Wurst mit Senf. More Strudel of a different type ensued which set us up for a rather surprising evening....
Recommended as I had been to visit the Kahlenberg Hill for a view over the city, we caught the U-Bahn then the S-Bahn then a bus up through the hills, passing many charming Heurige (classic taverns) on the way. In addition to a stunning sunset, we were greeted by all the police in Vienna, or so it seemed. We were bemused by the very passive-seeming crowd and peaceful procession and were only relieved of our confusion by chancing past a monument, recounting the Schlacht am Kahlenberg of 1683. The battle was fought between the Holy Roman Empire, led by the Habsburgs, and the Ottoman Turks. The Habsburgs won, forcing the Ottoman Turks out and subsequently recovering and dominating Hungary and Transylvania - no wonder historians cite it as the 'turning point in the Ottoman-Habsburg wars.'
To finish - a selection of miscellaneous photos of this beautiful city! I'm in love with it already and so excited for the next eight months (touch wood)!
GOETHE!
More Naschmarkt nosh - student cooking from now on!
