A month ago I'd never heard of this teeny tiny island nation off the west coast of Africa. From their discovery in the 15th century, the islands were under Portuguese rule until their peaceful independence in 1975. As the second smallest African sovereign state (after the Seychelles), it's hardly surprisingly no one has heard of it. And having seen what the islands have to offer, I'm inclined to keep it that way... Totally untouched and unspoiled by mass tourism, these verdant islands are abundant in endemic species, coffee and cocoa and the most friendly people!
Above: obligatory pastéis de nata in at the layover in Lisbon airport, leaving the coast of Portugal, sweeping over the Sahara (!) and the most thrilling descent to São Tomé.
In our true family fashion, we hit the ground running and explored much of São Tomé in our first few days with a wonderful local guide - shoutout to Agostinho! We travelled along the island's East coast, stopping at Boca do Inferno, a natural blowhole which is said to have been home to the notorious Baron of Água Izé who would appear from the submerged cave on a metal horse. Nowadays, it's notorious for engulfing curious tourists.
Despite enjoying some of the freshest and most delicious chocolate ever whilst visiting Roça Sundy, the numerous former plantation houses on the island are a harrowing reminder of the nation's (very recent) history of slavery.
Part II of the trip began by boarding a tiny plane for the 30 minute flight over to Príncipe - not for the faint hearted! Apparently we were lucky that both journeys went smoothly as it's not uncommon for birds to perch in the engine and disrupt departure..!
We thought São Tomé was green but Príncipe practically reinvents the adjective. It truly is paradise on earth!
Above: a selection of views from one very trusty Toyota Hilux!
Relatively little has been written about these islands but the guide book we found suggested a variety of "moderate hikes". "Moderate" is apparently a very subjective adjective...
Hike 1 took us around the north eastern peninsula, past Praia Macaco, Praia Boi and Praia Grande where we were warned against swimming due to lurking barracudas. Instead, we found ourselves sprinting across a thin strip of sand between a lagoon and the crashing waves of said treacherous sea. Once across, we wound our way up through the trees along a seeming interminable forest path. Given the island's location almost bang on the equator, daylight hours are short so as 5 o'clock approached and we were still deep in the jungle, the shark infested waters we'd left behind were seeming increasingly appealing compared to a night in the cobra-ridden jungle.... Plot spoiler: we survived!
Hike 2: Pico Papagaio. Perhaps the most memorable day of the trip, we hiked this peak with the 'help' of a local guide, Ramos. Although his frenetic pace and constant disappearances did rather seem like he was trying to pull a Hansel and Gretel on us, I've never been so happy as when he produced sandwiches from his bag once we'd reached the peak! Sweaty and knackered, it was the best cheese roll I'll probably ever eat.
But for all the mad hikes (*endurance tests), Principe also boasts some of the most paradisiacal surroundings. Praia Banana, just below where we were staying, is renowned by many (myself now firmly included) as the best beach in the world. It is, after all, where the Bacardi rum advert was filmed..!!
Above and below: Praia Banana (thankfully a baracuda-free zone!)
This post is getting long so I'll end with a compilation of photos from one of the world's most magical corners!
Above: funky plants, the blue lagoon on São Tomé, sunsets and a waterfall on Principe and finally, Principe airport's very cool and small departure lounge!
A