My time left in Vienna is drawing to a close.… I wrote the exact same line two years ago, knowing full well that I’d be back as soon as my degree was complete. Well, it’s a similar situation now, although thankfully no degree lies between me and this city. Rather, I’m heading back to the UK for a job which, fingers crossed/pressed thumbs, may well lead me back here in the future!
So, as a form of catharthis/note to my future self and anyone reading this who might be visiting Vienna soon, I’ve collated a list of my favourite places. Restaurants, parks, coffee houses and swimming pools. There’s a reason this is the most liveable city in the world!
Warning: this is a long read….
KAFFEEHÄUSER
It would be wrong to start with anything other than Vienna’s magnificent and manifold coffee houses. The city’s living rooms offer an oasis - sometimes musty, always beautiful and often staffed by grumpy waiters who make it known that they’re boss and that you’re lucky to be there. It’s all part of the charm!
So, here goes in order of personal preference which is dictated, yes, by the experiences and memories I’ve had in each place but, being truthful, much more so by the quality of their Strudel. NB, this list is just a fraction of the coffee houses you’ll find in Vienna.
1. Café Hawelka, 1010
Café Hawelka was the first coffee house I entered on arriving in September 2020. It’s bang in the centre so is always well populated but, given the small size and dark interior, you feel as if it belongs to you for the duration of your visit. It also happens to be home to the best strudel I have ever eaten. A memorable day! *edit - I went back yesterday for Strudel and met the owner who was lovely! Marry me Michael!*
2. Café Sperl, 1060
Sperl is very much up there with Hawelka in my opinion. Larger, lighter and a bit grander, it’s a great choice for breakfast or lunch and offers a wide range of savoury specialities. My favourite is the Eierknockerl mit Salat - dense, shredded egg dumplings which are accompanied by a zingy salad. I NEED the dressing recipe! The strudel is good - generous and heavy on the apples. Points deducted for temperature and apple:pastry ratio.
3. Café Tirolerhof
A relatively new find but one to which I’ve taken every visitor since discovering. Tirolerhof is right opposite the Albertina yet mysteriously calm inside, unlike the overflowing Café Central. The savoury options are extensive and range from simple soups to hearty plates of Goulash and dumplings, making it a perfect pit stop in a long day of sightseeing. The Strudel is cold and fresh so perfect for a summer’s day.
4. Café Jelinek, 1060
Being 2 minutes from my flat, Café Jelinek had to feature. It’s smaller and shabbier than the above but, being a little out of the centre, seems to be a locals’ favourite - not that you can see them behind their cartographic newspapers. Jelinek is my go-to Kaffeehaus for breakfast so, shock horror, I can’t comment on the Strudel.
5. Café Bräunerhof
Entering Café Bräunerhof is like stepping into a 1920s train carriage. The Strudel is wonderfully apple-y and, being bigger but just around the corner from Café Hawlka, it’s a lesser known spot where you can escape the crowds.
6. Café Central
It would be amiss not to mention the world renowned Café Central. Banish your tourist trap fears, book a table for lunch or dinner and you certainly won’t be disappointed. The savoury menu is expansive and the portions generous. Plus, if you stay beyond 15:30 (except on Tuesdays), you’ll be treated to live piano music. Strudel: 8/10
WHERE TO EAT
I could quite happily continue singing the praises of Vienna’s Kaffeehäuser but, in the name of balance, I’ll digress. Not too far from the the Strudel source however, don’t fear. This next list comprises my favourite restaurants in the city.
1. Waldviertlerhof
Let’s start with an authentic Viennese haunt, serving Schnitzel, Knödel and many specialities in between. Refined but comfortable, this is a perfect place to sample a traditional Austrian meal.
2. Gasthaus Rebhuhn
I’ve only eaten here once but can confidently say that it’s worth a visit if you’re looking for traditional dishes in a classic and classy atmosphere. Rebhuhn was actually recommended to me by a Viennese colleague which speaks for itself.
3. Gasthaus Pöschl, 1010
Small and intimate, make sure to book in advance for a table in this authentic establishment. The atmosphere is a little like eating in a private dining room, yet the bar gives it a buzz and the waiters are lovely. The menu is seasonal and changes frequently - always a plus in my opinion!
4. Reinthaler’s Beisl, 1010
This was one of the few restaurants I ate in two years ago on my pandemic-plagued year abroad but that’s not the only reason for it appearing here on my list of memorable meals. Despite being in Vienna’s first district, you could easily be entering a mountain cabin on crossing the threshold. Its wooden interior and hearty meals are the epitome of ‘Gemütlichkeit’.
5. Pizzeria il Mare
If you’re 90% Schniztel and looking for a bit of variety in the form of pizza, it ca be tricky to choose from the many pizzerias populating the city. Pizzeria il Mare is the best I’ve tried to date - and I’d say I’ve tried enough to warrant their own category. But, we’re in Austria after all so I’l limit it to one.
6. Naschmarkt
Moving on to more informal food, the Naschmarkt really does have it all. It’s the place to be on a sunny weekend for lunch, brunch and everything in between. There are lots of restaurants at the city-end of the market, serving wonderful seafood and traditional fare - by which I mean both Schnitzel and falafel. Follow your nose away from the Secession end and you’ll be surrounded by stalls selling falafel wraps, noodles and baklava. It would certainly be possible to make a full meal out of all the samples thrust at you as you pass but my favourite is either a falafel wrap or cheese and spinach Borek. Yum!
7. Berliner Döner
Perhaps a little unexpected but all the more delicious for it, this Döner stand is the best in Austria, so I’ve been told. It stands on the corner of a street in the seventh district and is always decorated by a long queue snaking across the road. They’re recently invested in some outside tables so it really is the place to be on a sunny day.
NATURE
After all that food, you’re probably feeling ready to stretch your legs and see the sights. As well as an obligatory walk around the Ring, I highly recommend embarking on one of the many city walks (Stadtwanderwege). I can proudly say that I have now ticked off every single one, having completed the majority during the pandemic when Kaffeehäuser were tragically closed.
1. Stadtwanderwege
My favourite walk, which I do on a monthly basis, is from Heiligenstadt up to Kahlenberg. There are a couple of different start points I’d recommend. Firstly, you can talk the U4 to Heiligenstadt, from where you follow your nose (in absence of much signage) to Beethoven’s house and from there up through the vineyards. A second start point, which makes for a slightly longer walk, is Handelskai S+U. From there, follow the Donau up to Leopoldsberg (warning - strenuous!) then head across to Kahlenberg from there. If you’re feeling frisky, making this into a round trip down to Grinzing is well worth it and you can reward yourself with Schnitzel at a Heurige. (Heurige Hans Maly is my favourite thus far!)
2. Burggarten
Burggarten is my favourite of Vienna’s many parks - I can vividly remember walking through it on arrival in 2020 and observing big groups picnicking, children teetering on the edge of the pond and solo souls reading under trees. It’s also where I celebrated my 21st with pizza and Sekt so is full of good memories!
3. Stadtpark
Another great park is Stadtpark, just across from the school I’ve been teaching in this year. It’s less regal than Burggarten and Volksgarten but, with its statues of Strauß, doesn’t stray too far from the mark.
POOLS
To continue the sporty spirit, take a trip to one of Vienna’s architecturally stunning indoor pools or old fashioned outdoor lidos.
1. Amalienbad
Built in the 1920s, this stunning art deco pool is straight out of a Wes Anderson movie and is sure to inspire as you glide up and down. Despite the architectural beauty, it’s actually the cheapest of Vienna’s many indoor pools and offers major reductions if you go for an early morning session..
2. Stadthallenbad
Another indoor swimming pool but this time more modern. Unlike Amalienbad, this pool is split up into lanes so I’d advise donning a swimming cap and diving right in.
3. Krapfenwaldbad
I thought I’d died and gone to heaven when I first took a plunge in Krapfenwaldbad - a public infinity pool overlooking Vienna. Made up of three pools nestled among cedar trees, gloriously old fashioned changing rooms and a cafe, you could easily spend all day here and I plan to. Many times.
4. ArbeiterInnenstrand
Not quite a pool but a swimming spot nonetheless, ArbeiterInnenstrand is a stretch of the Donau Insel where you can easily access the water from a reedy beach. It’s a short walk from the metro station to this beach lined field, making this the perfect spot for a post work dip!
MISC
And to finish, a small selection of some random/niche/alternative ways to spend your time in this amazing city.
1. Kirche am Steinhof
First up is a stunning Jugendstil church, designed by Otto Wagner in the early 1900s. It’s set in the grounds of a still-functioning mental institute but is open to the public and makes for a fascinating visit. Behind the church, you can wend your way into the Vienna woods and join one of the many walking trails which will take you up to Jubiläumswarte - a tall, spiralled observation deck with panoramic views from the top.
2. Leopold Museum Rooftop
Open from spring to autumn, there’s a lift to one side of the Leopold museum which zips you up to a roof terrace. Enjoy the views (and the bar?) after a visit to my favourite of Vienna’s museums. Another great roof terrace for views of the city is at Ikea near Westbahnhof. The cafe is also a not so hidden gem if you’re wanting a break from Schnitzel and Strudel.
3. Prater
This retro theme park is open year round and free to enter, so you can wander around without paying a bean. If you do have a head for heights though, the Riesenrad and its smaller neighbour, the Blumenrad, are iconic. I’m still waiting for the perfect weather to take on the big swing.
4. Julius Meinl
Not so much a sight, as a shopping recommendation. This impressive food hall is akin to Fortnum’s in London and well worth a trip for the beauty of all the displays and packaging. I particularly love just watching the Viennese locals buy their weekly essentials here - a girl can dream!
5. The Third Man
Even if you’re not a cinephile, a trip to the Burgkino on the Ring is an absolute must. The Third Man, a British film set in Vienna, is shown weekly and is, so I’m told, considered one of the best films of all time…..
Can you tell I'll be bereft when I leave? Vienna really does have it all..apart from a coastline - reason enough to return to the UK...?!