This past week has perhaps been the best of both year abroads thus far! Having had one Viennese Christmas in lockdown two years ago, it's magic to witness the real deal and experience just how extra Austria really is when it comes to Weihnachten.
In Vienna you can't walk more than 500 metres without being caught by a Christmas market tide and just as on bonfire night when your clothes absorb that wonderful smoky smell, mine now constantly carry the scent of candied almonds and Glühwein (absolutely zero complaints!)
Last Wednesday, before yet another Austrian bank holiday, I caught the train to Jenbach in Tirol, to continue the market marathon with a friend who lives in Schwach. 500 metres were swapped out for 15 kilometres as we hiked from the Christkindlmarkt in Innsbruck to one in Hall. Having discussed the recent Tyrollean wolf and (thankfully not so recent) bear sightings over breakfast that morning, safe to say, it wasn't just the anticipation of Glühwein which sped us through the forest as darkness descended.
Plot spoiler: we survived!
From Schwaz, I travelled to Salzburg and from there, to Obertauern with my family for a weekend of snow, skiing and, you guessed it, another Christmas market!
But don't be fooled: Sunday was a total blizzard with temperatures reaching -15 which, for my Raynaud-ridden self, was more of a challenge than the bear-infested forests above Innsbruck...!
On Monday evening I zipped (as zippily as you can zip when it's a five hour, 3 train journey) back to Vienna, where we reconvened on Wednesday for sightseeing (think Schloss upon Schloss & market upon market) and sampling of as much Austrian cuisine as is possible in 72 hours.
The winner was undoubtedly the Kirchl mit Sauerkraut - effectively a donut filled with sauerkraut, eaten standing up, ideally accompanied by a mug of steaming Glühwein.
Austria really has won Christmas!
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